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Amp Services
This is just a sampling of the amp services we provide. Ask about anything you don't see here. Also, many of these services are available with our Mobile Service. See our Rates page for sample rates.
You can also ship us your amp chassis, and we'll ship it back to you for your convenience. Contact us for details.
Check out these customer comments: Testimonials
TUNE UP
Thorough chassis cleaning (dust - oils - gunk), pots, jacks, and switches cleaned and lubed. All fasteners tightened. 2-prong cord replaced with 3-prong grounded cord. Tube sockets retensioned. Check transformers for proper function and output. All new tubes installed (if desired) and burned in. Bias set and output checked. Any problems found will be documented and repair options given.
"BLACKFACING"
Take a sterile-sounding 70's Fender Silverface and have it converted to Blackface specs. Makes the amp much more musical sounding and warm. Increases gain and sustain as well. Convert the "bias balance" pot to a more functional true bias adjustment. Modifications needed vary by model. Sometimes a cap job is needed, as well as certain coupling caps replaced (chocolate drops).
"BACK-DATING"
Make your new(er) amp sound like a closet classic. Caps, resistors, etc, drift in value over time, contributing to the sound of an old amp. We can recreate the circuits of great sounding old amps with drifted value parts , and may be able to "vintage-ize" your amp.
Do you like the way your amp sounds now, but know you need work done? Replacing components to original specs may not get you the sound you have right now out of an old amp. I will measure the critical component values as they are now (caps, resistors, etc), and replace any needed parts with those of the same value, as long as they are safe to use without circuit damage.
Marshall Bluesbreaker Reissue / JTM45 Reissue "Beano Mod": Make your reissue amp sound like the original that it is pretending to be. Make that amp produce the same thick, rich, creamy sustain, with ultra-rich harmonics, that Clapton enjoyed back in the day. This mod involves tubes, transformers, speakers and certain vital circuit changes.
CAP JOBS
Electrolytic capacitors (power supply, bias, and cathode bypass) are only designed for a working life of 10-15 years. After that, they can drift up or down, perhaps even explode, causing lots of hum, flabby or uncontrollable bass response ("motorboating"), or other circuit damage. Coupling caps can also go bad, leading to a host of problems (audio and otherwise). Don't risk your tubes, transformers, or tone with old caps.
If your amp is over 10 years old, at least the electrolytic caps should be changed. If it's 20 years or more, or your experiencing weird hum, distortion, bassiness, thin or muddy sound, it's probably a good time for all of them to be checked. I'll use any good caps that you prefer (Sprague "atoms", TAD, orange drops, Mojotone, Mallory, F&T, etc.) Sprague Atoms have gotten very expensive recently, and will only be used if requested. F&T (made in Germany) and others make very good quality electrolytic replacements, and still sound quite good. Coupling caps can be tailored to the tone you'd like to get.
RE-TUBING
Preamp tubes have a fairly long life. Phase inverter and reverb driver tubes can get worked really hard, and may need more frequent replacement. Power tubes have a more limited life span, depending on your playing style and bias adjustment, as well as many other factors. We will install tubes of your choice (NOS, JJ, Sovtek, Svetlana, Groove Tubes, Tung-Sol, etc.), burn them in, and set the bias (if adjustable). Matching tubes can be installed if desired, though without a blue-printed circuit, you may not be able to tell the difference. You may even prefer the sound of unmatched tubes!
I can highly recommend the new Tung-Sol reissue tubes for many applications. Give them a try. Superb tone.
BIASING
Many amps have adjustable bias on the power tubes. This keep the current flow within the proper range, contributing to longer tube life. "Cooler" bias lets the tubes live a lot longer, with a slight sacrifice in warmth (you may not even notice). A "hotter" bias may give a little more warmth and tone (maybe), but you sacrifice a lot of tube life. Unless requested, I'll set it for a happy medium with good tone and long life. The best thing you can do is play it and let me know what you want.
Also, some amps with "non-adjustable" bias can actually be adjusted, or converted to adjustable bias, if desired. It just takes a bit more work, and the replacement of a few parts. Some amps really benefit, such as Boogies and Peavey 5150's, which are often too cold from the factory. Newer Fender amps (Blues Jr., Hot Rod Deluxe, etc.) can also sound much better, and let the tubes last longer, with adjustment.
TICKING TREMOLO / VIBRATO
There is actually a fairly simple fix that will eliminate the problem. Fender actually issued a service bulletin on this one.
NOISE REDUCTION
Snap, crackle, pop, should only be heard with your breakfast cereal. We'll get to the bottom of it. And YOU should be the one humming, not your amp (at least not loudly).
MODIFICATIONS / DE-MODIFICATIONS
Tone Shaping Mods: Shape the tone the way you like it. A midrange control can be added, or the midrange permanently adjusted, on amps without a midrange control. Excess treble and piercing highs can be reduced. Fender "Fart-Out" from excess bass can be controlled. Give your Fender a more "Marshall-y" midrange boost. Add a "bright switch", or many more possibilities. Convert your unused "normal" channel into something special.
Reverb: Reverb can be added to the "Normal" channel, conversion of capacitor-driven reverb to "Fender Style".
Rectifiers: Convert tube to solid-state, or SS to tube. This may involve other circuit mods to stabilize the amp. Weber copper caps can replace most rectifier tubes, and keep the same sound with no modifications. "Sag" mods can make your SS rectified amp a little more "bluesy".
Tremolo / Vibrato: Make the effect more or less intense, faster or slower, add to "normal" channel.
Half-Power Switch (Triode/Pentode): Reduces the output power to about half of normal, with no potential for damage.
Cathode Bias: Convert your output stage similar to a Vox AC-30 or Tweed Fender. Sacrifices some power in exchange for smooth, creamy distortion and compression at lower volume.
Variable Feedback: Replace the fixed value feedback resistor with a variable control to adjust distortion and gain characteristics.
Bias Pot: Convert your amp with "bias balance" or non-adjustable bias to fully adjustable bias for longer tube life.
Speakers: Nothing makes a more instant change in amp character than a speaker change. Ask for recommendations or supply your own. Plus, it's fully reversible.
Headroom: Increase headroom in your Fender Princeton or similar, to allow clean playing at higher volumes. Lower the headroom in your Super or Deluxe Reverb for some pleasant breakup that won't breakup your marriage or wake the neighbors.
De-Modify: Return a modified amp to stock condition.
Power Cord Upgrade: Replace your dangerous 2-prong cord with a 3-prong grounded cord. A MUST for safety!
PCB to PTP Conversion: Convert your newer PCB amp to a point-to-point vintage version of itself. This can also remedy the problem of "Why does my Fender Re-Issue not sound like the original?"
Custom Amps
I'm currently not stocking any custom amps, but will build them upon request. Contact us for a quote. If demand gets high enough, I may start building on a regular basis. We can also rebuild some solid state combos or heads into custom tube amps.
Disclaimer
*Note: not all services on this website can (or should) be performed on all guitars or amps. Contact us for details*